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Dry Wall Tips
- Need to patch a hole in the wall, take a piece of scrape drywall (sheet rock ) cut it about an 1 bigger
then the hole, then on the back side of the piece cut a plug to fit the hole, don't cut the paper on the front
side, peel the pieces you cut off the front paper, put mud ( dry wall compound ) around the plug and on the pieces
of paper hanging out, push it into the hole in the wall, run over it with a trowel, let it dry a couple days fill
it in and sand smooth.
- Do not use regular Sheet Rock where there will be moisture, use a product called Green or Blue Board, this
is made to resistant water, some only have water resistant paper, the better stuff has water resistant gypsum and
water resistant paper, in a really wet area or if your going to use it behind Tile get the better stuff or with Tile
use the concrete board, especially in shower areas or for tile floors in bathrooms.
- When you go to Tape the dry wall, prefill the cracks and sand first, it will help to reduce cracking later
on, you may want to cut the joints open a little to insure that the joints get filled up with compound.
- If you want to Tape and Texture in one day, use a Product called Sudden Bond 90, it will dry in about an hour,
instead of using regular compound that may take up to 3 days to dry, mix up small amounts, then hurry up and get it
on the drywall. I have had it setup in my mud pan a few times lol.
- Also use an allpurpose light weight Compound ( mud ) your arms do not get so tired holding that mud pan.
- If you do not want all that dry wall dust from sanding, you can use a damp flat sponge and wipe the seams down
- Make sure all the mud is dry before you prime it, after you put the primer on walls around and look at the walls
all those imperfections will stand out. Once the primer is dry you can remud any spots that look bad, then
let the mud dry and reprime that area.
- To see if the seams look good hold a light up against the wall, all those flaws will jump out.
- To keep your seams from being to big of a bump, feather them out a good 8 to 10 on each side.
- For 1/2 drywall use 1 1/4 drywall screws ( nails will pop out later on down the road ) for 5/8 drywall
use 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 drywall screws. Pick up a drywall screw tip or use a dry walling drill to screw in the drywall
screws, you don't want the screw to break through the paper, you want it to compress the paper just enough to cover
the screw head with mud. With those tools you can set the depth of the screw.
- 5/8 drywall is for the lid ( ceiling ) and any fire walls, like between the garage and the house.
- 1/2 regular drywall is for walls.
- 1/2 green or blue board drywall ( water resistant ) is for bathrooms or anywhere the has a lot of moisture
or dampness in the room.
- Always hang the lid (ceiling) first, then the walls, on a standard stud wall there should be a 1/2 space
between the floor and the bottom of the drywall.
- Hang the drywall on the rafters and studs like a T the stud or rafter would be the up and down part of the
T and the drywall would be running the same way as the top of the T. When you hang the next row of drywall cut
the sheet in half, in other words don't put all the ends in the
- Put 6 screws in the ends of the drywall and 5 screws in the field, one on each edge and 3 spaced in the middle.
- To help hang the 5/8 lid, make a T out of some 2 x 4s just a little taller then the height of the ceiling,
slide it under the drywall to hold it in place while you put in the screws.
- Use a 4" trowel for your first coat of mud, then an 8" to 10" trowel for the seams, use the 4"
towel to mud your inside corners or you can buy a corner trowel.
- When you put mud on, try to skim off as much excess mud as you can, less sanding and dust ( :
- When sanding use drywall sanding screens, they work a lot better then regular sand paper.
- When you tape the inside corners, fill both sides with mud then cut a piece of drywall tape to length, fold
it first, then press it in place, then use the 4" trowel and skim one side then the other side, making sure
it sits in the corner correctly, to put the 2nd and 3rd-- coats on, coat one side at a time, when that's dry do
the other side, they have inside corner trowels but I never had any luck with them.
- After you get done painting with that expensive brush, wash it then wrap it up in aluminum foil and put it
in the freezer. It will be ready to use the next time you need it, not all dried out and stiff.
- If you want to reuse that roller, same thing, freezer.
- Have a paint brush that's a little stiff, brush it out with a wire brush, if you soak it first, works even better.
- After you wash out your brushes, wrap them up so the bristles are straight, then store it laying down or hang
it on a hook.
- After your finished painting, fill a Baby Food Jar with the paint, air in the can is what ruins the paint,
then you will have some for touch ups.
- After you paint a room, take a light cover off and put a piece of masking tape on the back side and write what
paint and color you used, then you will always have that info where you need it most and if you sell your house
you can tell the new owners, don't forget to give them the Baby Food Jars ( :
- Want to paint that ugly Paneling, paint over it with Kilz, you have to let it dry a day or two for each
coat ( says in 1 hour, true for regular priming jobs ) what happens is the color from the paneling bleeds into
the Kilz, that's good, it gets locked into it, then put another coat on it, and another if needed, next what I
do is skim and Tape the seams with drywall mud, then prime it again, then Texture it, then prime, then paint. But
if you just want to paint it, prime it 2-3 times with the Kilz and then paint it. Open some Windows when you
use the Kilz. Kilz will also cover dirt, crayon marks, it is used to cover smoke damaged surfaces, locks out the
smell and locks in the stain. Regular Kilz is the best but not to healthy, Kilz II is water based. I sprayed 57 gallons
one day on a fire job and wore a carbon filtered maske with all the windows open and I still got goofy from it.
- If you think your going to Wall Paper later on use a light Texture, like an Orange peel, looks like the skin
of an Orange.
- You can make a Texture with a lot of things, like Newspaper, put the mud ( Dry Wall Compound ) on the wall
then crumple up a page of Newspaper and start dabbing, you can do the same thing with sponges. Put a line of mud
on the edge of a Trowel and drag it across the Dry Wall ( called Skip Troweling ), you'll have to experiment with
all of those to get an effect that is pleasing to you.
- Prime your walls and ceilings before you Texture, then check for flaws on the walls, remud them, then reprime the patches after they dry.
- If you are going to put the Cottage Cheese Texture or( Popcorn Texture )on the Ceilings, I would use the light to medium
grade, less of it falls off and it is a lot easier to repaint, then the really course grade. This texture covers really
well, so you do not have to be real fussy when taping.
- If you want to do the Texturing, Rent a Texturing Machine from a rental shop, they do not charge that much,
maybe 25-30 dollars for the day, you achieve a lot nicer finish with it. Just make sure you mix the Texture according
to the instructions, if you get it to wet it will run, if not wet enough it will clog the sprayer tip or not come
out at all. The Texture most Contractors use is called Orange Peel, a very cheap Texture as fare as materials,
just water down some Drywall Compound ( All Purpose ), put the tip on about the second smallest hole, set the pressure
at about 10 to 25 psi, move the sprayer back and forth and up and down until you get the desired results, or a
Splatter Texture which is the same as Orange Peel only you mix the mud a little stiffer, keep the psi at 25 and
spray, spray, spray, this method will cover a lot of Tapping flaws. I did one that was a cross between Orange and
Splatter, after I sprayed the Walls and just as it got partly dry, I ran a big flat trowel over it, this would
flatten the bigger splats, I called it Spanish Lace, looked like Lace after you painted it with a semi gloss paint.
This is tricky though, because you have to knock it down differently on the seams or you'll get slides. All these
Textures can be used on Ceilings to.
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